Caring for pets in Toronto & GTA since 1989
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Cozy Critters Caring for pets in Toronto & GTA since 1989 |
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Experienced, dedicated care for pets in all stages of life. We specialize in geriatrics, pets with medical conditions & disabilities |
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Cat care tips!
These tips are kindly provided by our VP and official mascot ... Mr Cat!But I hate needles These vaccines start between 6 to 8 weeks of age and are given every 4 weeks for the following 3 months. A rabies vaccine is the last vaccine given. When your kitten is due for his/her 3rd booster, your veterinarian will also administer the rabies vaccine. If you acquire a kitten over the age of 16 weeks, your veterinarian may administer both booster and rabies during the first visit. By law, all cats over the age of 16 weeks must be vaccinated against rabies. Your veterinarian will give you a tag and certificate as proof of rabies vaccine. If you do not get a certificate, ask for it. In case the tag is lost, the certificate will provide proof of rabies vaccine and avoid a lot of problems if your kitten or cat is ever in question. There is on going research to determine which annual vaccines continue to be necessary as your cat ages. Cats kept strictly indoors and highly unlikely to encounter other cats may be able to discontinue boosters or only need part of the usual booster components. Research is also on-going for rabies vaccines. Although some rabies vaccines now offer a 3-year immunity, most booster and rabies vaccines are given in accordance with the needs, health and lifestyle of individual cats. If your cat is allowed outdoors, your veterinarian may recommend an extra vaccine for FeLV (Feline Leukemia Virus) or FIV (Feline Immunodeficiency Virus). Cats allowed outdoors are at a higher risk of contracting these viruses through contact with infected cats. Never decide on your own to discontinue any vaccines. To do so may interfere with the health of your cat. The research of vaccines continues. Your veterinarian can best determine the right preventive program for your cat. It is highly recommended never to allow a kitten under the age of 4 months to go outdoors.
“FVR” stands for Feline Viral Rhinotracheitis. Sometimes also called Feline Viral Complex as it includes various components of respiratory infections. In basic form, a bad cold. Sneezing, congestion, weepy eyes are common. It is highly contagious. Left untreated, it can become serious. The "C" in the booster is for Feline Calicivirus Infection. Another highly contagious upper respiratory disease. It can cause pneumonia, painful mouth sores and ulcers; even arthritis. The "P" In the booster is for Panleukopenia. Also called Feline Distemper. Highly infectious, this is an insidious disease often affecting the gastrointestinal system. For kittens a difficult recovery and high mortality rate. I’m a Hi-Tech kitty It takes about the same time to implant a microchip as it does to inject a vaccine - less than 10 seconds - and is done in much the same way. Your veterinarian will implant the microchip under the skin between the shoulder blades. It does not cause pain or discomfort and will not move from where it is placed. Here’s how it works. Within the microchip is a number. That number is unique and exclusive to your kitten or cat. All you need to do is ensure the national database has important information for your kitten or cat (i.e. distinctive markings, age, vaccine history etc.) and always has up-to-date contact information for you. When you realize your kitten or cat is missing, you would call the national database so they can place an alert next to the microchip’s number. When your kitten or cat is found and brought to an animal shelter/veterinary clinic, a handheld scanner will be used to check for a microchip. When the scanner detects the chip, the number appears and the national database is contacted to report the number scanned. The alert appears, indicating your kitten or cat as reported lost. The national database will contact you directly or the shelter/clinic will contact you. A microchip may also save your kitty’s life. If your kitten or cat is found when sick or injured, a microchip will make the shelter or clinic aware that your kitty has a home. You will be contacted and treatment can start. Without knowing if your kitty has a home, a crowded shelter faced with the cost of veterinary treatment may have no other choice than opting for euthanasia. Pet theft is also a rising crime. Healthy kittens and cats are stolen and sold for research. A microchip implant may deter a thief from selling your kitten or cat for research. Microchips provide an easy way for authorities to locate stolen pets in research labs. Thieves and research labs scan stolen pets and those with microchips are let go. Kittens and cats allowed outdoors are particularly vulnerable to theft. Even those kept indoor benefit from a microchip. All it takes is once that your kitten or cat escapes through an open door or window. Unfamiliar with the outdoors, it’s easy for him/her to become lost, injured or stolen. Microchips are a small investment of time and money but are one of the best safeguards you can provide. Biting the hand that rubs me We love to be massaged but after a while the area being massaged is over-stimulated and becomes slightly irritated. Your kitten or cat can experience the same feelings. The best thing to do is give him/her a time-out. Watch for the signals that typically indicate over-stimulation - tail twitching, ear twitching and restlessness. Ignore the signals, well…it’s your hand! Feline saliva and nails contain a high level of bacteria. If you have been scratched, clean and disinfect the area well. If your skin has been exposed to saliva, wash the area. If you have been bitten and the skin is broken, it may be wise to consult a doctor. Proper cleaning and possibly antibiotics may be needed to prevent infection. The same goes for your kitten or cat. If another cat bites him/her, a visit to the veterinarian is needed. Bite wounds abscess quickly. Start your engines! Ever had your veterinarian exclaim he/she cannot hear your kitten or cat’s heartbeat due to the loud purring? Well, it’s usually because your kitty is a bit anxious, not because he/she just loves the veterinarian! Research has uncovered evidence of the “how, why and where” of purring. The hypothalamus is the area of the brain that determines pain or pleasure. When either is detected, endorphins are released that sets off the “purr centre”. Studies have shown that purring may help in the healing of a sick or injured cat. It can also help females ease the discomfort of labour. In their natural state, it can be used as a survival tactic. Purring the way to a quick recovery would help make a cat less of a target for predators. Cats are masters of disguise and cover illness very well. Getting to know your kitty’s body language is a good idea. Of course, when on your lap or on the most comfy chair or blanket – especially when being petted or brushed – the loud purring makes it obvious he/she is quite content. Purring outside of the norm, especially in tandem with listlessness, lack of appetite or hiding, may be cause for concern. Oh, what pretty plants
Your veterinarian can provide you with a list of toxic indoor plants. If you have plants that cause concern, you don’t necessarily need to throw them out. Placing them in a hard-to-reach area may be all that is needed. If your kitten or cat is allowed outdoors, ask your veterinarian for a list of toxic outdoor plants before investing time and money on your spring garden. Young kittens, older cats and those with medical conditions may have more serious reactions to toxic plants, even plants generally noted as mildly toxic. It is possible to have a beautiful garden, a home filled with plants and flowers and a healthy feline! That little box holds big secrets Kittens and cats hate to be dirty or make a mess. If your kitten or cat starts to avoid the litter box don’t get angry right away. Your kitty is not being lazy or badly behaved. He or she is calling loud and clear for help, as all is not well. Even subtle changes in bathroom habits or the frequency of trips to the box can indicate a problem. Felines are particularly adept at hiding illness but the one place they cannot hide it, is in their litter box. For instance, Diabetes, hyperthyroidism, Feline Lower Urinary Tract Disease (FLUTD) also known as Feline Urinary Syndrome (FUS), often first show up as changes in litter box habits or amount of waste. FLUTD/FUS is a serious condition affecting mainly male cats. The urethra becomes blocked with crystals and he is unable to empty his bladder. His desperate attempts to urinate force him to squat wherever and whenever he can. Sometimes coming right up to you and doing so at your feet – just so you know he’s in trouble. Painful attempts to urinate in his litter box also have a psychological impact. He starts to associate pain with his litter box and avoids going there. As the condition progresses and his ability to eliminate urine becomes less and less, the more serious the problem becomes. Crying, straining as though he were constipated, fever, depression/listlessness often accompanies this disorder. FLUTD/FUS is one of the true veterinary emergencies for cats and requires immediate treatment. A cat with a fully blocked urethra may die within 48 hours. Female cats have a shorter urethra. They are less likely to have blockages. However, females can get Cystitis. In basic terms, it’s a bladder infection and can cause the same symptoms. If your kitty exhibits these symptoms or if you ever see a trickle of blood-tinged urine, a quick visit to the veterinarian is essential. A litter box also provides a place of security and comfort for kittens and cats under extreme stress or feeling sick. If you see your kitty resting or sleeping in his/her litter box this is a red flag and requires a trip to your veterinarian. Some kittens and cats are highly sensitive to change. What seems as a tiny change to you, may be a big deal to him/her! Changes in the type of litter used or even moving the litter box to another area can cause emotional upsets and insecurities. A change in your lifestyle habits, a new baby, bringing in another cat or other pet can also trigger an emotional upset. Your expensive Persian rug then doubles as a bathroom. If your veterinarian has determined your kitty is clear of physical illness, you can then assume a small, but mighty, change in your household led to the upset. Your veterinarian will offer suggestions how to lead your distressed feline back to the box. What’s for dinner? Feeding amounts are based on the age and weight of your kitten. At 9 months of age, a kitten is ready to switch to adult food and the type of food and amount you offer should change as well. As cats age their bodies require adjusted levels of carbohydrates, calories, fats, vitamins, minerals, and your veterinarian may suggest feeding an adult maintenance food. Feeding your cat the right type of good quality food in tandem with an appropriate amount helps to keep him/her at an optimum weight and prevent the onset of disease. Allowing your cat to become overweight not only makes him/her feel awful but it’s an open invitation to heart disease, diabetes, thyroid conditions and fatty liver disease just to name a few. The extra weight also puts unnecessary stress on joints and spine and can promote the onset of arthritis. Ensure your cat has his/her annual exam. During the exam, your veterinarian will weigh your cat to check if he/she is at optimum weight. If your cat is too heavy (or not heavy enough!) your veterinarian will suggest changes of portion amounts and if necessary, the type of food. If your cat is over 7 years old, your veterinarian may recommend switching from an adult maintenance food to a senior maintenance food. Yes, at age 7, your cat is considered senior and again, adjusted amounts of carbohydrates, calories, fats, vitamins and minerals are needed. Protein levels need to be lower for older cats. Cats are prone to kidney disease and too high a level of protein in some foods can cause problems with kidney function. Some veterinarians prefer to be on the safe side and recommend a food lower in protein by age 5. If your cat has been diagnosed with kidney problems, you will already have started feeding him/her a specially formulated low protein diet. A solid foundation in nutrition is key in helping your kitten or cat stay slim and live a healthy life. It is advisable not to give your kitten or cat cow’s milk. They don’t produce enough lactase enzymes needed to properly digest lactose and most are highly lactose intolerant. I don’t like my dinner Other illnesses or stress could also be the reason your kitten or cat has suddenly turned up his/her nose to dinner. Moving food dishes from one area to another can cause a sensitive kitten or cat to protest. If your kitten or cat has a clean bill of health and there haven’t been any changes in feeding area or routine, then it can be assumed to be a simple (or not so simple!) case of “Finicky Feline-itis”. As personified by Morris the Cat (pitching his Nine Lives), some cats are just plain picky and fickle. Sometimes mixing a decadent, smelly food with his/her regular food may work to get the appetite roaring again. Any rich and decadent foods should usually not be used long term. They are too high in fat, carbohydrates and protein to be of any real value on a long-term basis. But smelly is good! The smellier the better as far as a cat is concerned. If your kitten or cat is particularly stubborn and still will not eat, a veterinary consult is in order. In extreme cases, force-feeding will be necessary. Sometimes an ailment or disorder makes a food change necessary and your veterinarian has recommended your kitten or cat to start eating a prescription food. With that, your chances of a hunger strike have increased. Speak with your veterinarian about his/her policies regarding prescription food purchases. Formulated for specific medical conditions with proven results, they are more expensive than regular foods but well worth the money. However, spending money on food your kitty won’t eat, doesn’t benefit anyone. Many veterinarians realize the potential for protest and some will accept unused portions of a new food and credit you the difference to apply to another brand. Your veterinarian may suggest you “test drive” a few different brands and offer samples. Unless otherwise directed by your veterinarian, changing foods should be done slowly. A large amount of new food may sometimes cause gastrointestinal upsets. Start by offering meals of ¼ new food mixed with ¾ of the regular food for the first few days. If your kitten or cat tolerates the change, you can begin to raise the amount of new food in ¼ measurements over several days until all meals are 100% with new food. Look what I found! Cleaners, pesticides, rodent poisons, laundry supplies, paints/solvents, fluids and supplies for our vehicles all pose a threat. Products such as anti-freeze and brake fluid containing Ethylene Glycol are especially deadly and are more lethal for cats than dogs. Although Ethylene Glycol itself isn’t toxic, when ingested, it’s metabolized into toxic components. 1 teaspoon can kill an otherwise healthy, adult cat. It takes less for a kitten or for cats that are older or aren’t in optimum health. It affects the nervous system and shuts down the kidneys. Without immediate treatment, it can kill a cat within 8 hours of ingestion. Kittens and cats are attracted by the sweet taste and will happily lap it up unaware of the devastating results. Signs of Ethylene Glycol poisoning are lack of coordination, vomiting, increased thirst and lethargy. If you notice any of these signs immediate veterinary treatment is essential. Treated early enough – within a few hours of ingestion – kidney failure may be avoided and chances for full recovery are good. Poison used to rid your home of rodents or other pests leaves potential for ingestion. Solids, sprays, liquids and powders all leave a residue. As your kitten or cat explores, the poison may be picked up on paws or in hair. During grooming, the poison is ingested. Sometimes a kitten or cat will eat a dead insect or rodent and ingests the poison that way. Good preventive measures can avert the possibility of your kitten or cat being poisoned. If possible, switch to “pet friendly” products. Although these products are not 100% toxicity-free, the severity of the poisoning is greatly reduced. Whether indoors or outdoors, when using any household or vehicle products, clean spills up immediately. As an added precaution, clean your shoes to ensure you don’t track any residue inside your home. Medications, supplements, vitamins, anything meant for human consumption (and regardless if pharmaceutical or holistic), should never be given to kittens or cats without the advice of your veterinarian. Give the wrong dosage or type of drug and a serious or life-threatening event may occur. Acetylsalicylic Acid (i.e., Aspirin), Acetaminophen (i.e., Tylenol) and Ibuprofen (i.e., Advil) are extremely harmful for cats. Dropped a pill and can’t find it? Vacuum. Spilled some cough syrup? Wipe it up and rinse the area clean. Keep all poisons, medications and household products out of reach. Keep cupboards securely closed. Some kittens and cats can pry open doors. View your kitty as a perpetual 3-year-old toddler. As you would child proof your home, apply the same methods to keep your kitty safe.  Everyone loves a celebration! For your kitten or cat however, it may not be so much fun. The coming and going of family and visitors may cause him/her undue stress. You may notice changes in eating or litter box habits even hiding and other abnormal behaviour. Offer a little extra time for play or affection and attempt to continue as regular a schedule as possible. These may help calm the nerves of a stressed kitty. If you have visitors who bring small children, always supervise. Children especially need a quick lesson about understanding the boundaries of your kitten or cat. Show them how to approach and gently pet your kitty. Discourage them from picking up your kitten or cat. Well-meaning but inexperienced little hands that grasp too tightly or pick up incorrectly can cause injury to a kitten. An older, arthritic cat may respond with a bite or scratch. At the very least, a yowl that says “leave me alone”. Never allow children to chase your kitty. Chasing and being chased is a natural, fun game for kids. For a feline, it’s one of the most threatening, stressful encounters he/she can have. Ensure children are instructed to never feed anything to your kitten or cat. Provide an out-of-the-way, quiet spot your kitty can retreat to and not be disturbed. “Oh Christmas tree, oh Christmas tree…your ornaments are history”. I can’t take credit for that one. I have to thank Hallmark cards. I cracked a smile when I saw that card but the reality is trees and their ornaments can be a problem. Natural trees are very attractive to kittens and cats. They love the smell and some will attempt to eat the needles. These are not digestible treats. Preservatives used in the water reservoir to keep a tree fresh are toxic. If possible, avoid using them. Artificial trees have their own threats Tinsel and Angel Hair are particularly tempting and particularly nasty. If ingested it can cut not only the inside of your kitten or cat’s mouth, but cut or block intestines. Even a little bit can do serious damage. Your best bet is not to use either. If you insist your tree is not complete without it, only use it on the far upper areas of the tree and be diligent in vacuuming those little pieces that break and fall off. Ribbons and bows are another source of delight, but if ingested, they too can cause intestinal blockages. Move them out of reach and don’t use them for play. If your kitty is insistent on exploring your tree, you may want to consider constructing a barricade. If there is a door to the room the tree is in, make sure you close it when you can’t be there to keep watch. Using a baby gate may help prevent your kitten or cat from entering the room. An attempt to climb the gate is usually made so make sure it is strongly secured. Candles are source of delight for kittens and cats. Swatting at the flame as it burns and sways seems like a good idea but at a very high price. Keep candles high enough so playful paws and long tails don’t get singed or burned. You’ll not only save your feline friend from a nasty burn but you’ll lessen the chance of the candle falling over and causing a fire. We love our chocolate and now we hear it’s good for our heart! In fact for a kitty, chocolate is poison. The dark unsweetened chocolate mainly used for baking is the most toxic. Be diligent in cleaning up remnants of baking chocolate and don’t leave any chocolates within reach of your kitty. Supervise small children and ensure they don’t offer your kitten or cat part of their chocolate Easter bunny or your famous homemade double chocolate fudge cake. Put a few precautions in place and enjoy your holidays and celebrations.
It is also advisable to avoid bringing a kitten or cat to a new home during the holiday season. It’s a hectic time at best; supervision and adjustment more difficult. Stress, injuries and illness are more likely to occur. A quieter time of year is more desirable. You’ll have more time to supervise and help your feline friend settle in. You want to do what to me? Neutering is recommended by the age of 6 months. Some veterinarians will neuter a male cat as early as 10 weeks. The earlier a male kitten is de-sexed, the less likely he’ll begin to explore his maleness and begin the ritual of claiming his turf. In claiming his turf he will happily lift his tail and back up anywhere and on anything he feels should be marked. Marked meaning…sprayed by his urine. He will not care that this is not to be done inside your home. He’ll happily spray walls, carpets, furniture, and bedding – need I say more? It’s a messy, smelly business. The ammonia-like odour is almost impossible to remove. 90% of male cats immediately stop marking when neutered. Neutering will also make him a happier, nicer guy. It really will! If he’s kept strictly indoors, he’ll be more relaxed and not cry at all hours to go out and mate. If he does go out, he’ll be less interested in fighting and have no interest in mating. This is a biggie. The unwanted cat population is overwhelming. Please be responsible and don’t add to this problem. Some people are concerned their cat will gain weight once he’s been neutered. This is one of those gray areas. Some veterinary professionals believe it to be true, while others believe it to be a myth. Your veterinarian will let you know what he or she feels is more accurate. Either way, the benefits of neutering your cat are far greater than the risk of your cat getting a little paunchy. Proper nutrition, measured portions, keeping your cat stimulated especially if he’s kept indoors, should ward off any extra pounds. Neutering your cat will offer him a much-reduced risk of prostate trouble and the risk of testicular cancer is eliminated. Neuter your cat. He will forgive you, he’ll still be a man and he’ll thank you for helping him live a long, healthy life. What ... it’s my turn? Females mark territory in the same way as males by spraying urine on their area of choice such as your newly painted walls, expensive leather couch…etc. Once this habit starts, it is difficult to stop. A spayed female is also a happier, calmer, healthier cat. She will not come into heat and subject you to the late-night yowling and moaning due to her need to get outside and mate. She will not leave heat-related messes on your bedding, furniture and carpets. If she does go outside, you won’t have a pregnant cat to care for or the possible complications of pregnancy. Complications during pregnancy can arise especially in cats that are very young or become pregnant too soon after giving birth to a litter. You won’t have the task of finding homes for a litter of kittens or add to the already over-whelmed unwanted cat population. Be responsible and spay your cat. Will she gain weight? That debate is also on the table. Some veterinarians believe it can happen and some don’t. However, the same goes for spaying a female as it does for neutering a male. The benefits of spaying your female far out-weigh the possibility of an extra pound or two. Good nutrition, measured portion sizes and keeping her stimulated should stop her from growing a bit wider. She will thank you for allowing her to be a well-adjusted girl and for caring enough to extend her chances for a long life. But those are my toes! First, it reduces the need for your cat to undergo general anesthesia more than necessary and younger cats recover more quickly. Older cats are often traumatized by this surgery and don’t recover as quickly. However, regardless of age it is a painful surgery. It requires a 2 night stay in a veterinary hospital and lots of TLC when your kitty comes home. You will also need to replace regular litter with shredded paper for 7 to 10 days. This is to prevent possible infection from litter dust and from tender toes having to sift through harsh bits of litter. If you are having trouble with your kitten or cat scratching furniture, consider de-claw surgery only as a last resort. There are alternatives you can try first. Soft Paws®/Soft Claws® allow your kitten or cat to retain his/her claws but reduce or eliminate the damage to furniture by scratching. They are vinyl tips that fit over the natural nails and are secured in place with special glue. Depending on the rate of nail growth these tips can remain on for as long as 8 weeks. As the natural nail grows, the tip is pushed off. Once most or all of the tips have come off, you can replace them with a new set. Most kittens and cats adjust to these tips quickly and easily. Try training your kitten or cat to scratch only on scratch posts and pads. Most prefer to scratch either horizontally or vertically. Once you know which your kitty prefers, you can then buy the scratch post or pad most suitable. Speak to your veterinarian about the many other training methods and alternatives before you resort to de-claw surgery. Regular trimming of your kitten or cat’s nails may also help reduce the need to scratch. Just in case The correct way to handle a sick or injured kitty is also vital. Incorrect handling may result in further injury or discomfort and the most passive feline may strike out. Your efforts to help will be met with a nasty scratch or bite. Ask your veterinarian to show you the basics or sign up for a pet first aid course. The Red Cross and St. John’s Ambulance sometimes offer these courses. Basic first aid is not meant to replace the expertise of a veterinarian however, being able to provide interim care may mean the difference between recovery or not. If you live more than 30 minutes from the nearest veterinary clinic this is even more important. Put together a pet first aid kit. Your kit should contain bandage compresses, adhesive tape, absorbent cotton, styptic powder (cornstarch works also) for minor bleeding but don’t use it for excessive bleeding, scissors (with rounded tips only), tweezers, rectal thermometer and lubricant, rags and towels. A pair of thick leather gloves is also recommended. They will help prevent you from getting a serious bite or scratch. Illness and injury don’t always occur during regular office hours. Know where your nearest veterinary emergency clinic is located and how to get there. Emergencies happen at all hours and mapping out a route at 3am is the last thing you should be doing. Call ahead to alert the clinic why you are coming. A brief description is all you need to give and the clinic staff will take it from there. Alerting them ahead of time allows them to prepare so treatment can begin as soon as you arrive. True emergencies are:
Please DO NOT use the Heimlich maneuver on kittens or cats. To do so may result in serious injury or death. The Heimlich maneuver should ONLY be done by a veterinary professional. Equally not recommended is to use your fingers in an attempt to dislodge an object from the throat of a kitten or cat. This also may result in very serious injury. Cats have small bones that support the base of their tongue. It has been documented that well-meaning owners have mistaken these for chicken bones or other foreign objects. If you suspect your kitten or cat is choking the best way you can help is to seek immediate veterinary treatment. Mr. Cat and Cozy Critters hope this information has been of some help to you. We wish you, your kitten or cat a long, happy, healthy life together!
This page offers general information only. It is not meant as a replacement or substitution for the consultation and care of your veterinarian If the health of your kitten or cat is ever in question, always consult your veterinarian. You are welcome to submit questions of a general nature. If your question requires the advice of a veterinarian, animal behaviourist or other pet care professional, we will be happy to assist you in finding the appropriate professional. Questions may be submitted to animail@cozy-critters.com |
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The ABC’s of FVRCP-R
Toxic plants commonly seen indoors are Amaryllis, Daffodils, Iris, Honeysuckle and Ivy. These plants can cause tummy upsets and even tremors. Long believed to be a highly toxic plant, Poinsettia is over-rated. Mild gastrointestinal upsets are the usual reaction. Large amounts of Poinsettia need to be ingested before severe reactions occur. Plants of high toxicity are Mistletoe, Lily of the Valley, Easter Lily, Clematis and Rhododendron – to name a few. These plants cause severe poisoning and require immediate veterinary intervention. Lily’s can cause kidney failure. Mistletoe is deadly.
